Cage & Furnishings: 24"x24" is plenty of room for a Netherland. Wire floor with dropping pan is easiest on the owner, and a small resting board can be included in the cage if desired. Small feed dish or hopper. Water bottle or dish. Hay rack. Something to chew - clean untreated wood, or hard plastic cat or baby toys. Pine shavings, newspaper, or other fragrance-free bedding may be used in the pan. Do not use cedar shavings as the fumes can irritate a rabbit's respiratory system. Urine guards are recommended, and if the cage is kept in the house, a plastic sheet or other easy to clean material under everything. Stuff will still manage to get out of the cage.
I won't go into litterbox training as I've never really tried it. Google for more info about this.
Rabbits can take the cold, but not the heat. Never leave a bunny in the sun or hot car, it can become overheated very quickly. If kept outside, it must be protected from sun, wind, rain, and snow. If winter is harsh and often freezing, a box for a cozy cave will be appreciated. Unfrozen water should be available at all times. An unbreakable steel dish is best for this so ice can be knocked out. Water bottles will crack if they freeze. If kept in the house, room temperature is fine.
Food: Plain rabbit pellets (not the fancy kind with seeds and colored bits) and good grass hay (like Timothy) should be the main diet. 1/3 - 1/2 cup of pellets for adults, youngsters can be free-fed until 6 months old. Anything else as treats only and in very small amounts. Safe treats for Netherlands are commercial treats (formulated for rabbits), apple, banana, carrots, dry Quaker oats, sunflower seed, and clean untreated grass, clover, dandelions from the yard. NO lettuce, spinach, or corn. Clean water at all times. Sudden changes in diet can cause severe diarrhea. Always introduce new feed brand or treats gradually.
Handling: Small children should always be supervised when handling the rabbit. It's recommended that they sit on the floor until child and bunny get used to each other. If it squirms out of the child's arms, it won't fall far. They should hold the bunny against their chest with both hands. One supporting the rump, the other over the shoulders. Should the bunny become spooked or begin wiggling, this will ensure the owner has control.
The First Weeks: I will give starter feed pellets. Begin mixing in whatever you plan to feed when the starter feed is about half gone. Always make a gradual change whenever changing pellet brand. No treats for the first couple weeks. Allow the bunny a few days to become accustomed to its new home and people before handling too much.
Cautions: Netherlands are very small. Supervise their contact with other animals in the home. Take care they don't get into anything dangerous such as houseplants (some are toxic), electric wiring, etc. Watch carefully when they are on furniture so they don't fall and become injured.
Multiple Bunnies: If you plan to have more than 1 rabbit, separate cages are recommended. Young bunnies can get along for a while, but as they mature, they may become territorial. Of course, if you don't want a bunch of baby bunnies, go with a same-sex pair. Does can often get along when mature if raised together, but bucks may fight later.
Young rabbits often display some domination as they work out a pecking order. This is usually seen as mounting as if mating. Severe aggression can result in injury to each other, and even aggression toward the owner. They should be separated immediately if this gets serious. If one is losing weight while the other gets fat, there may be a bully hogging all the food. Again, separate them. One may chew on the other's fur, leaving unsightly bald spots. This isn't really harmful unless they are chewing the skin as well. Might be time to separate them. Changing cages can trigger aggressive behavior.
Help & Advice: I'm an E-M@IL away if any questions or concerns come up.
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