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BREEDING
1. Pick a pair. If you are breeding for color and quality, you need to choose mates carefully.
~ The Buck. He is the most important member of your herd. You should acquire the very best bucks you can afford. He should be show quality type per the Standard of Perfection. Color is secondary depending on your breeding program. An unshowable variety can be useful for producing proper color. In this case, he's considered a "brood buck" instead of a show bunny. Keep in mind that a very expensive buck isn't always necessary or even productive. Some breeders' lines are so tight, he may not "mesh" with your does. It's often best to buy a pair or trio (1 buck, 2 does) from such tightly-bred lines to increase the odds that those fine genes will be introduced to your herd. I prefer small bucks as they will produce more show quality type than a buck who pushes the weight limit. While a larger buck can produce good offspring, it limits his usefulness with larger false dwarf does. Large false dwarf bucks have no real use except as pets. An efficient rabbitry will have more does than bucks, and each buck should have more than one option for a mate.
~ The Doe. She, of course, is very important as well. She can be either a true dwarf show bunny, or a large false dwarf. We call the large doe "brood doe" or BUD (Big Ugly Doe). The BUDs are the baby makers. They are built for having litters and usually produce more easily than a small doe. BUDs will throw false dwarfs, but if you put her with a small buck, the odds are good for some show quality offspring as well. Sometimes, the biggest ugliest doe will allow most any buck to shine. The small show doe will have a harder time giving birth, and the litters will be smaller. A larger buck could hurt a small doe, and if the kits are too large, it will probably be a failure. If a small doe has proven to have litters easily, you can try a larger buck if needed.
2. Put them together. Ok, not that simple. While rabbits can mate at any time, they don't always "breed like rabbits". Bucks are almost always up for it, but a doe has to be "in the mood". I said "almost" in regard to bucks. There are those guys who are less studly, and like to play kissy-face instead of getting down to business. These gentlemen may need an eager doe to goad them into action.
~ Who goes where. Always put the doe in the buck's cage. He's settled there, and will go after the doe immediately. The doe can be very territorial about her cage, and may fight the buck if you put him in hers. Putting them both in a strange cage could slow the process while the buck sniffs around to see who else has been there. If you want to use another cage, put the buck in it well before you add the doe.
~ What happens next. Watch. If the doe is receptive, she will immediately signal this by flattening her body and raising her tail. The buck will usually mount right away. It's over in a few seconds. When finished, the buck will tuck and roll off the doe, often with a squeak. Afterward, there is usually more loveplay, and the buck may mount her several times. If the doe is very eager, she may mount him as well. A doe who is ready will sometimes give signs before she is put with the buck. If her vent is red and swollen, or she flattens while you are petting her, she's ready. I scratch and squeeze around the doe's hips much like a buck would to see if she reacts.
~ She doesn't wanna. If the doe is not receptive, she won't allow the buck to mount. She may fight him, run away, or she may just huddle in a corner with her tail protected. If she doesn't raise her tail, the buck can't get to where he needs to be. Remove the doe and try again the next day. She will usually come around after a few days. If the buck isn't aggressive enough, try her with a different buck.
~ Get her in the mood. A reluctant doe can sometimes come around due to changes. Change her cage and neighbors. Put her next to a buck. Take her for a car ride. Or better yet, take her to a show. The excitement, new smells, and all those fine bucks has been known to turn a doe's head.
~ Be careful! Both the buck and doe can become very excited. An intruder could be attacked and bitten. That would be you! If you fear for the safety of your hands when separating an over-excited pair, it's a good idea to put on a pair of gloves.
3. Timing. There are several factors that affect successful breeding.
~ How it works. Rabbits don't have a "season" like other mammals. They do seem to have a sort of "heat cycle" that comes around every 5 days or so. The doe may not be receptive outside this cycle. The actual act of copulation triggers the release of the doe's hormones and eggs. The 1st mating may not be enough to impregnant her as it takes time for the eggs and sperm to come together. Remove the doe after they have mated a few times. Then give her back to him in a couple hours. This is said to increase the odds that she will take, and maybe increase the size of the litter. However, single matings have been known to be all it takes.
~ Age. Netherlands can become sexually mature fairly young. Sometimes as young as 4 months. They are considered adult at 6 months. Breeding age varies with the rabbits and often within particular lines. For instance, my BEW does often conceived at 4 1/2 - 5 months, where my shaded and himis might not until well over 8 months. I usually breed a doe the 1st time when she is about 6 months, but a show doe might wait until 8 months. Bucks are usually mature by 5-6 months. A buck can perform well into his later years, but does should be retired after 3-4 years. They usually won't produce much after that, and it can be very hard on them.
~ Condition. The rabbits should be in good condition. Not too fat. A pudgy buck might not be able to get past his spare tire. A fat doe will have a hard time getting pregnant and kindling. I like to keep my brood does on the boney side. Not skinny, but where I can feel their hip bones. Too much fat on a doe accumulates around her ovaries, and that can hinder conception. A show doe should go on a diet when she comes of breeding age. The molt which usually happens during summer heat waves is not a good time to breed. The bunnies will be stressed and out of healthy condition for breeding. It's said that bucks will become sterile during long periods of summer heat. I've never had a case of buck heat sterility that I know of. I back off breeding during hot summer months.
~ How often. To keep does in breeding condition, you should keep them "barefoot & pregnant". Allowing a doe to go for too long between litters can affect how easily she conceives or kindles the next time. I like to rebreed a doe when her litter is 4-6 wks old. This depends on her condition. If she is real raggedy, I will wait until she recovers more. If she is in good condition, she can be rebred earlier. A buck can cover more than one doe in one day, but I prefer to let him rest until the next day before I give him another doe. If a doe has produced several litters in late winter and spring, I let her rest through the heat of summer.
~ Seasonal. In nature, rabbits' normal breeding season is spring. The days are getting longer and warmer, and food is abundant. Breeders generally have the most success in spring. In winter, some breeders fake it by increasing daylight with artifcial lighting. Lots of natural light in the rabbitry can help,too. Fall through winter is usually more frustrating for getting litters. A warm spell during winter is a good time to try to get a few breedings in as the does often respond to it.
~ By the moon. Ok, this is a bit of stretch, but it's said that breeding on the full moon is more productive. Some say it produces more bucks or does (depending on which version you read). Many breeders (including myself) swear by it as it does seem that breeding is more successful during a full moon cycle.
~ You decide when. As a rule, rabbit gestation is 31 days. This can vary a day or so either way, but you can usually count on 31 days. If you want a litter born on your birthday, Christmas, etc, you can do that. Count back to find the breeding date. This method of picking kindling dates is called "Breed Back Schedule". I try to avoid having a litter due on a show weekend, or other reason I can't be here for a couple days. I like to be here for the big event. An easy way to make sure litters aren't born on show weekends is to breed Friday through Sunday. Litters will arrive Monday through Wednesday.
4. Records. Write down when the pair was bred. A calendar and notepad in the rabbitry are real handy. Note the day of breeding, and then count 31 days to note the day of expected birth. I hang a card on the doe's cage with this info. I also keep a breeding record for each doe. It's a history of each breeding, litter, and failures, so I can keep track of how that doe produces, and a quick reference for offsprings' age and parentage. I note things like colors, peanuts or other abnormals, whether fostered and to whom, or why the litter failed. Since the bucks are included in this record, I have a handy reference for them as well.
5. Wait. If all goes well, in 31 days you should be blessed with a fine litter. If you are experienced at palpating (I'm not), you can do this at around 10-14 days, and rebreed if necessary.
6. Failure. Unfortunately, litter failure is common with Netherlands. First-timer does may not be successful. They might "miss" conceiving. Litters might be born dead, or die after birth. Poor nest-building skills, or inexperience can lead to the litter's demise. Some does may not be successful until the 2nd or 3rd attempt, and some does never get it right. This is most often small show does. The BUDs are more reliable, and valuable to a dwarf breed herd. Most breeders give up on a doe after the 3rd strike. I give them more chances as patience has paid off.
7. Rebreed. If the breeding fails, rebreed the doe within a few days.
My Personal Notes: Things I've learned from experience.
~ I always try to have more than one doe bred at a time. If needed, kits can be fostered to another doe. I often hold a doe open until the next round of litters arrive, and then rebreed all that need it at the same time.
~ Once a pair has successfully mated, I leave them together overnight. This method has worked for me in good litter rates. Exception for a doe with a litter at her side. In that case, I return her to her litter that evening. Some breeders fear injuries, but so far, other than the occasional broken toenail, it's never been a problem for me. And the buns seem to enjoy the sleepover.
~ Some breeders only "table breed". This is where the pair is set on the grooming table and held and sometimes forced to mate by the breeder. I don't do this, nor do I agree with it. I think it's unnatural, and the buns don't get the chance for the "loveplay" that is the rabbits' mating dance. If you've ever seen how happy a buck is when he gets to play with a doe, you'll know what I mean. Many of these table breeders complain about low litter rates. Breeding is always more successful when allowed to go according to nature. Just my opinion.
~ My does are retired from the show string when they reach breeding age, or no later than 8 months old. Their most important job is reproducing themselves, not how many wins they can rack up. Piles of legs don't mean anything if they never appear on offsprings' pedigrees, and if the doe gets much older, she may never produce. Keeping her in prime show condition for very long can result in an obese doe that will have difficulty producing.
~ Buy the rabbit, not the pedigree. Big names and lots of legs in a pedigree don't guarantee the rabbit will produce the same quality. Breeders sell their culls, not their best. High price is not a guarantee of quality, either. A top breeder's expensive stock may not mesh with yours and that money could be a big waste.
~ If a rabbit (buck or doe) has not proven itself in its offspring, it's time to move it out. Unproductive does are just taking up valuable space. Bucks or does not producing as good or better than themselves won't move the quality forward. Incompatible color genes might be causing to many DQs in the nestbox.
~ I move does on by the time they're 2 years old. I should have got all I need from them by then, and they are still useful to someone else. It's not wise to buy a doe over 3 years old. I prefer to buy does under 6 months old. I have better luck if they are bred the first time in my barn. However, if I know and trust the breeder to be honest about how a doe has produced, I'll buy older ones up to 1-1/2 years old.
~ I don't keep bucks just because they show well. They must earn their keep in breeding as well. When they no longer have any use in my program, I move them out.
Related Info: Glossary; Links; Babies; Nestbox; Color Articles
* DISCLAIMER * This article was written from personal experience and opinion, and some input from other breeders. It is intended as a guide only. Other breeders may disagree or have other methods.
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